What do several bottles of wine and a large pomegranate have to do with a spiritual 'pilgrimage' across Armenia? Well, you're going to find out today, so grab a glass of something nice and I'll begin.

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In contrast to yesterday's downpour (and having been tossed around the van like a salad and starved of caffeine) - today's tour could not be more different.

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It's 8:45am and the sun is already blazing down on Yerevan.  I have already consumed two coffees, so I am actually ready for my Enlightened Armenia tour!

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I'm delighted, as Hannah and Fraser (my tour buddies from yesterday are joining us). Having been for a delicious slap up meal the previous evening, I have already broken them into my acquired taste 'sense of humour'.

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Today we're joined by Adi (from the US), Sue from Ireland (Irish Sue) and Osher (from Israel) - plus our knowledgeable Tour Guide, Aiida.

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Hannah, Fraser and I shotgun the back seats and settle in for the journey.

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In case you're just here for the funny stuff, or like me, churches are churches,

I've attached our timetable for reference:

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Enlightened Aremenia

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9:00 am – Departure 

9:30 – 10:00 – St.Hripsime 

10:10 – 11:15 – St. Echmiadzin

12:00 – 13:00 – Khor Virap

13:15 – 14:15 – Lunch in Pokr Vedi

15:45 – 16:20 – Noravank

16:35 – 17:15 – Wine tasting in Areni

19:00 – Arrival in Yerevan

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St.Hripsime 

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Our first stop on the tour is St Hripsime. Aiida (our tour guide) explains that the church celebrates a Nun who refused to marry the King of the time, and was subsequently stoned to death in the grounds outside (love a good Disney story).

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It turns out the stones used to murder the nun are proudly on display in one of the crypts. As we exit the crypt, Hannah and I catch each other's gaze over the stone doorstop. We attempt to stifle our giggles as I make a mental note to save Hannah a seat nearby in hell.

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St. Echmiadzin

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This is one of the very first churches in Armenia, although the inside we're told is much more in keeping with modern churches (apparently the Armenians like to keep things simple). It's not long until I'm asked to leave, due to my lack of modesty (apparently my calves are far too saintly for the congregation - who'd have thought?). I make a mental note not to wear shorts again.

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Khor Virap

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Khor Virap has incredible views of the ominous looking Mount Ararat in the background.

 

According to Aiida, Saint Gregory was incarcerated in the dungeon and miraculously managed to survive for 2 years without food and water! Well, it transpires that out one of the Nuns in the castle was sneaking him in bread and water.  Miracle my a*se.

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In this church there are two cosy dungeons (one of which held the legend himself). So of course, I'm going to be exploring them. The manhole is accessible under a massive ledge, where, essentially, you have to contort yourself and then descend via a metal ladder into the darkest depths of hell.

 

It's a one in one out type affair to access Gregory's prison, if you've ever wondered how many people you can fit into a dungeon, you'd be surprised believe me!

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Lunch in Pokr Vedi

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Aiida announces that we've be invited into a traditional Armenian family's home for lunch.

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The house is super quirky and cute, with its little terrace, sun traps and awning roof. Everywhere you look there are vegetables growing and pomegranate trees, basking in the Armenian sunshine.​ On the outside wall is a traditional Armenian carpet, which apparently serves as a great insulator in the winter months - who knew?

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Irish Sue and I have fallen in love with Mitsi the cat. We're told Mitsi lives next door but she spends most of her days, basking in the sun on the chair swing. On closer inspection, Mitsi the cat boasts a modest set of balls... perhaps we should rename him Mits-he!

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Our host family has laid out a massive feast on the kitchen table, in the background classical music balances out our excited chatter. After we've suitably stuffed our faces with the feast, ​​our Artisan host proudly shows us his art and collection of Soviet maps he's collected from newspapers.

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There's something rather ominous and poetic as the classical music turns melancholy, just as he shows us of the parts of Turkey which used to be Armenia. 

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Mount Ararat is revered by Armenians, although the irony that it now stands in modern day Turkey hasn't escaped me.

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We're invited out onto the terrace for coffee and chocolates, whilst Mits-he the cat settles into Irish Sue's lap. Before we know it, it's time to head off to our next destination.

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Our host cuts all of us a pomegranate from his orchard, and we're informed that this is a gift of fertility. Clutching onto our harvest, we say our goodbyes and head back to the tour van.

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Noravank

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This monastery is tucked away through lots of winding mountains. In my humble opinion. Noravank is the most beautiful of the monasteries we've seen today. It's crazy to think how close we are to the Iranian border too. Whilst the other's check out the interior of the church, I enjoy some quiet time, taking in the incredible scenery and wondering what life was like back then. I catch a very cute picture of Hannah & Fraser on the monastery outer wall.

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Wine tasting in Areni

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Believe it or not, I have never undertaken an official wine tasting (despite having tasted a lot of wine).

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We're treated to various different wines and sherries - my favourite is a 2018 Areni vintage (it's more of a dry red and very smooth). Perhaps the wine lady is a great sales person, as I purchase a bottle for later.

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On the way out, Osher scales one of the walnut trees, scrumping for dessert, much to the distain of our host.​ Still stuffed from lunch and merry from the wine tasting, it's a couple of hours drive back to Yerevan. We're caught in the typical Yerevan traffic, before arriving back at the hostel.

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We spend the evening sharing a bottle of the winery wine and finishing off one of the pomegranates.

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Lets pray I don't end up pregnant any time soon.​

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